adjusting guitar truss rod

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Guff Tong
Posts: 1115
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:53 am
Location: Warminster

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by Guff Tong » Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:51 am

if you do fark it up it could make a good slide, lap steel guitar I suppose....?

I've recently been working on an old P Bass copy that a mate had. The former owner had decided that the fret board seemed to be sitting too high in relation to the body so chizeled out the neck mount recess!! Have had to fill it up to get it to sit back where it should be. All the frets were fubared too so took them out and filled the up grooves Jaco Pastorius styleee (In fact I dont think Jaco even bothered filling the grooves?). When I've a spare 50 quid (decent flatwounds are a bit pricey) I'll get some guitar nerd to finish it off propa jobby :D

Taking this into account, I can wholey understand your reluctance to shell out on a cheap intrument, thats whats keeping me from finishing that P bass!!

My first guitar aged 13 (some 30 years ago) was a crappy Kay LP copy. Man I butchered that bad boy.... It had it coming ;)

dancerchris
Posts: 343
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:48 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA USA

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by dancerchris » Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:57 pm

Guitar setup is pretty easy once you understand a guitars geometry, every guitar player should do their own. If you have a luthier do it they better know your playing style intimately becuase they are going to give you just a "generic" setup otherwise. All of the 'greats' out there have different setups and it's really up to the individual to decide what they like. SRV liked big fat 13's with high action so he could really crank on the strings. Others like girly 8's with super low action. There are a number of websites that give tips on setup, my fave being frets.com. It is great and frustrating to setup on a cheap guitar. Frustrating because the hardware is usually subpar and you generally need higher action to get a buzzless playing guitar due to the frets being less than level. Great because the risk is small.

You should be able to safely turn the truss rod nut a quarter turn at a time (adjusting strings to tune between each rod adjustment). I frequently do a half turn when I do mine for season changes. Remember that tightening the rod (clockwise) increases string tension, decreases bow and vice-versa. To check the level of bow use feeler guages. Measure string clearance at the 12th fret when the string is fretted at 1st (capo) and at the neck to body juncture (usually about the 17th on an electric). This should be a minimum of .010. The actual value is really a function of the player's playing style, string gauge and typical tuning.

Proper setup includes bridge/saddle setup and tuning the nut slots. The most sensative parameter being the nut slots. read up on this stuff and you will be able to have great custom tuned guitars and no seasonal expense for summer to winter variations.

My 2 cents.
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Various guitars, keyboards, sax and friends

mojofunk
Posts: 433
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:37 pm
Location: Buffalo NY
Contact:

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by mojofunk » Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:07 pm

Wow - I've been playing guitar for nearly 40 years, and somehow never thought of a luthier as a repair tech, more as a designer and builder of instruments. I giggled when I read "take it to a luthier", I thought, why not to a logger, or a tree surgeon. And I'll take my broken car to a steel worker! But, lo and behold, Wiki sez they "build and repair" em! I have learned something today! On the other hand, I've gotten some pretty nice set-ups from guys who do not design and build their own guitars. And indeed, these are skills that all guitarists must develop for themselves eventually.

Tone Deft
Posts: 24152
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:19 pm

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by Tone Deft » Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:35 am

dancerchris wrote:Guitar setup is pretty easy once you understand a guitars geometry, every guitar player should do their own. If you have a luthier do it they better know your playing style intimately becuase they are going to give you just a "generic" setup otherwise. All of the 'greats' out there have different setups and it's really up to the individual to decide what they like. SRV liked big fat 13's with high action so he could really crank on the strings. Others like girly 8's with super low action. There are a number of websites that give tips on setup, my fave being frets.com. It is great and frustrating to setup on a cheap guitar. Frustrating because the hardware is usually subpar and you generally need higher action to get a buzzless playing guitar due to the frets being less than level. Great because the risk is small.

You should be able to safely turn the truss rod nut a quarter turn at a time (adjusting strings to tune between each rod adjustment). I frequently do a half turn when I do mine for season changes. Remember that tightening the rod (clockwise) increases string tension, decreases bow and vice-versa. To check the level of bow use feeler guages. Measure string clearance at the 12th fret when the string is fretted at 1st (capo) and at the neck to body juncture (usually about the 17th on an electric). This should be a minimum of .010. The actual value is really a function of the player's playing style, string gauge and typical tuning.

Proper setup includes bridge/saddle setup and tuning the nut slots. The most sensative parameter being the nut slots. read up on this stuff and you will be able to have great custom tuned guitars and no seasonal expense for summer to winter variations.

My 2 cents.
good advice and others have put up good DIY posts. BUT a n00b luthier (an average guitar player btw) will never do it as well as someone that does it for a living (not your average player) and has been doing it for years.

I just got my electric guitar back from the SF Guitar Center luthier, he did a full setup, it's really f-ing cool. it's like the ear muffs have been taken off my playing, the notes ring truer so my playing sounds better.

FWIW the guitar is a Brian Moore i9.13 and I paid $95, $15 extra to get the bridge blocked. it was decent before, now it's 8O . next week, the acoustic goes in. a decade of beach bonfires with that one.
In my life
Why do I smile
At people who I'd much rather kick in the eye?
-Moz

djsynchro
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:06 pm
Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by djsynchro » Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:01 am

Ctrl-M to assign MIDI controllers to knobs, sliders etc.

gurumonkey
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 3:28 am
Location: Cleveland, Oh

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by gurumonkey » Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:44 pm

ahh, tone. you'll love having your acoustic in. I had mine in last summer and it came back a dream. woot.

chaibuka
Posts: 318
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 2:06 pm
Location: spencerport, ny

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by chaibuka » Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:24 pm


smartass303
Posts: 880
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:14 pm

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by smartass303 » Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:45 pm

djsynchro wrote:Ctrl-M to assign MIDI controllers to knobs, sliders etc.
LMFAO

303

Tone Deft
Posts: 24152
Joined: Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:19 pm

Re: adjusting guitar truss rod

Post by Tone Deft » Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:38 pm

no need for ctrl-m. the guitar's midi control has a pot that automatically maps to the Axon's volume control and a toggle switch to change patches.
In my life
Why do I smile
At people who I'd much rather kick in the eye?
-Moz

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