Hi,
I'm new to Ableton Live, so I'm sorry if I'm asking a stupid question. What should I do if I want to mix a track at about 80 bpm with one at 160 bpm? I don't want them to play twice as fast, obviously. Should I prep all my tracks that are around 80bpm so that Live thinks they are 160 bpm, or is there a simpler way to play them at half the current bpm without loosing the markers?
Thanks.
Mixing hiphop with drum'n'bass
-
sweetjesus
- Posts: 8803
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 3:12 pm
- Location: www.fridge.net.au
- Contact:
The Easiest Way to deal with time tweeks, is to warp-correct the tracks if they need it, and Render them to the round number (80 or 160) with analysis file ON and you will have a perfectly warped and flat track that only needs ONE warp marker (The first down beat). Then you can flip the BPMs on the fly by selecting the warp marker and clicking on the :2 buttons...
If that is confusing, read the manual on warping and rendering...
PM Me and I'll try to explain better...
If that is confusing, read the manual on warping and rendering...
PM Me and I'll try to explain better...
15" PB 2.5 Ghz, 4 Gig RAM, 750 GB HD, Live 9 still no cue points or program change messages?!?. Doesn't do shit.
-
robbmasters
- Posts: 1107
- Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2004 7:37 pm
- Location: London, UK.
It's best to keep them at 160 bpm then flip them to 80 bpm when you need to, rather than the other way around.
The reason is that the same track will be twice the number of bars at 160 bpm that is is at 80 bpm. For example, a 5 minute track will be 200 bars at 160 bpm and 100 bars at 80 bpm.
If you take your 100 bar 80 bpm track and flip it to 160 bpm it stays at 100 bars, so you have to move the end point - or you "lose" half your track.
Going the other way it can't stay at 200 bars (as there aren't 200 bars at 80 bpm) so it correctly reduces to 100 bars.
Of course I may have got this backwards, so you may want to double check.
Next question: how can I do a set that starts at 80 bpm, builds to 160 bpm, halves time to 80 bpm then starts to build again, before going round again as many times as I feel like..?
The reason is that the same track will be twice the number of bars at 160 bpm that is is at 80 bpm. For example, a 5 minute track will be 200 bars at 160 bpm and 100 bars at 80 bpm.
If you take your 100 bar 80 bpm track and flip it to 160 bpm it stays at 100 bars, so you have to move the end point - or you "lose" half your track.
Going the other way it can't stay at 200 bars (as there aren't 200 bars at 80 bpm) so it correctly reduces to 100 bars.
Of course I may have got this backwards, so you may want to double check.
Next question: how can I do a set that starts at 80 bpm, builds to 160 bpm, halves time to 80 bpm then starts to build again, before going round again as many times as I feel like..?
OS X, Live 9, Microbook II
This might be long. Here goes...
Perfect tempo songs only need ONE warp marker to tell the computer the speed to play the track. You set the "1" marker (drag it) to the first down beat, then you can drag (without double clicking and turning it yellow - making it an anchored warp marker) the warp markers left or right to tell Live the tempo of the track. Try this on any clip while it plays and you will see what I mean...
Warping MOST music done on computers has perfect tempo (doesn't slow down or speed up over the length of the song), but older, pre-computer music, and songs recorded from vinyly will usually have a bit of tempo drift. You use warp markers to tell the computer when each bar starts (every 4 beats). The problem with that, is that wonce you have more than one warp marker, you can't half or double the tempo settings for each clip.
What you can do to make any song quickly switchable, with only ONE warp marker is this...
1. Warp the track using as many markers as you need to make it work... Make the BPM of LIVE's session an easily round number (80/160 for Hip Hop/DnB). The BPM of the session is in the upper-left corner.
2. Make sure you don't have any FX (compression, EQ, etc)... you generally dont want to effect s track permanently unless it is really screwed up and need the FX corrections badly.
3. Drag the warped track to the arrangement view (upper right corner, below the Disc action bar). Put the track into the appropriate lane.
4. Select the track by clicking on it. This will render the whole track, but no more...
5. Render the track to disc. Make sure "Render as loop, Normalize" is off. Make sure Include ALS (analysis) file is ON.
6. Import the new, clean, rendered audio track into Live.
7. Look at the warp markers. There should only be one. If not, turn off the second, double check the accuracy with a few playbacks and the metronome on...
Perfect tempo songs only need ONE warp marker to tell the computer the speed to play the track. You set the "1" marker (drag it) to the first down beat, then you can drag (without double clicking and turning it yellow - making it an anchored warp marker) the warp markers left or right to tell Live the tempo of the track. Try this on any clip while it plays and you will see what I mean...
Warping MOST music done on computers has perfect tempo (doesn't slow down or speed up over the length of the song), but older, pre-computer music, and songs recorded from vinyly will usually have a bit of tempo drift. You use warp markers to tell the computer when each bar starts (every 4 beats). The problem with that, is that wonce you have more than one warp marker, you can't half or double the tempo settings for each clip.
What you can do to make any song quickly switchable, with only ONE warp marker is this...
1. Warp the track using as many markers as you need to make it work... Make the BPM of LIVE's session an easily round number (80/160 for Hip Hop/DnB). The BPM of the session is in the upper-left corner.
2. Make sure you don't have any FX (compression, EQ, etc)... you generally dont want to effect s track permanently unless it is really screwed up and need the FX corrections badly.
3. Drag the warped track to the arrangement view (upper right corner, below the Disc action bar). Put the track into the appropriate lane.
4. Select the track by clicking on it. This will render the whole track, but no more...
5. Render the track to disc. Make sure "Render as loop, Normalize" is off. Make sure Include ALS (analysis) file is ON.
6. Import the new, clean, rendered audio track into Live.
7. Look at the warp markers. There should only be one. If not, turn off the second, double check the accuracy with a few playbacks and the metronome on...
15" PB 2.5 Ghz, 4 Gig RAM, 750 GB HD, Live 9 still no cue points or program change messages?!?. Doesn't do shit.
