Monome 40h Kits

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 7:58 pm

kabuki wrote:I bet a nice, clear lego case would look nice.

Legos, who doesn't love Legos. Wow, I wonder how well that would line up. Gotta look up the spacing on the Lego connectors...

tjwett · Post by **tjwett** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:33 pm

hey just a heads-up. these guys might be worth a shot for cutting top plates etc.

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/

dCross · Post by **dCross** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 12:29 am

dunno if it's been mentioned, here is another option: http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 2:51 am

dCross wrote:dunno if it's been mentioned, here is another option: http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

Thanks for the tip, their SW is really straightforward I did a rundown here
http://www.ableton.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 205#490205
Not bad, there's still a few weeks to figure this out.

Kits have been pushed back a week
http://forum.monome.org/topic/910#6127

tehn wrote:i'm going to push the pre-order back one week, don't worry.

boards should be here last week of june, we don't want to hold people's
money for that long.

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:36 pm

FWIW...
There's just a few SE 40h (aka 64) models left (not kits).
http://monome.org/articles/2007/06/14/f ... units-etc/

Kits on sale tomorrow, more info later today. Looks like they tightened up the button design too.

tehn wrote:final se units etc

posted Thursday, June 14, 2007

we have only a few left, contact us immediately if you’d like a chance to get one. specify white or grey base enclosure, orange or green leds.

we’re working on a few more small applications which will take advantage of the accelerometer. for users looking to add one themselves, we’ve put together graphical disassembly instructions on the wiki.

the new new prototype boards for the 256/128/64 are here and being tested. the new connectors are very pretty. the new new keypads have been retooled with some small physical changes which made incredibly positive changes to the tactile response. they feel nothing like the prototypes we showed at the maker faire, which didn’t have quite enough spring.

kit orders start tomorrow! more information will be posted before then.

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:45 pm

Kit details including pics and profiles.
http://monome.org/40h/kit

kabuki · Post by **kabuki** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:55 pm

I bet one could make a good LED jig out of a coulple of sheets of foam core and a printout of ther button array.

Glue 2 or three sheets of foamcore together. Glue the printout of the array to the foamcore. add rizers to the correct depth. Punch holes (to hold the LEDs) with a phillips head screwdriver or awl, using the printout as a guide. Insert the LEDs...

you get the idea. All we would need is a schematic of the array and details on the best depth (hight) of the LEDs.

I was worried about that part, but it doesn't sound too bad.

kabuki · Post by **kabuki** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:57 pm

I can't find anything that says how many diodes need soldering.

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:58 pm

you're talking about getting the LEDs into the holes perfectly up and down, right? Brilliant idea, thanks!!

I think I'm going to make mine with blue LEDs.

I still don't know about the bottom half of the case.

EDIT - !!! The LEDs are on a 3/4" grid. You know that peg board people put up in their garages to hang tools, it's like particle board with holes all over it? MAYBE I can find that stuff in a 3/4" grid and BOOM, done.

kabuki · Post by **kabuki** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:05 pm

I can set up an array template if I need to with the button PCB. The only question I have is how high should the LEDs be? I guess placing one in and pressing a button is the only way. I want them in as far as they can go without being hit my the button.

DAMN.

kabuki · Post by **kabuki** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:06 pm

I have an acquaintance that imports rare hardwoods. I am thinking about doing a case in all wood, that would be designed to switch out with an aluminum top plate later if I want...

All black oak or cherrywood, methinks.

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:07 pm

I edited my previous post with an idea...

I believe the LEDs go all the way down into the board as far as they can go. Put the LED in the right way, bend both legs so it stays in place, solder in one leg of it, check for up and downness, solder in the second leg, snip the legs, repeat 63 more times.

Wood is a good idea for the case. I also like the Legos suggestion.

kabuki · Post by **kabuki** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:09 pm

Aren't there other parts that solder to the legs of the LEDs? I thought I saw that somewhere. Maybe that was the Diodes...

Tone Deft · Post by **Tone Deft** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:12 pm

I don't think so, the LEDs here:

Notice how one leg is longer than the other, also the bottom of the lens will have a flat side, both indicate polarity.

The diode here:

The little white (gray) mark on the left side on its top goes next to the white spot on the silkscreen on the board.

Rogue Scrunt · Post by **Rogue Scrunt** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:21 pm

kabuki wrote:I have an acquaintance that imports rare hardwoods. I am thinking about doing a case in all wood, that would be designed to switch out with an aluminum top plate later if I want...

All black oak or cherrywood, methinks.

why do black if you do imported woods?

it would make more sense to me to do it kind of natural.

to each his own,

If you are going to do black wood, use some cheaper domestic wood.

or, re-purposed wood, recycled from a furniture shop