Re: DIY Ableton foot controller build thread!
Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 6:43 am
found some really great info on modding game controllers here.
zeal wrote:momentary is the way to go, latching switches act as if you are holding down the key. the caps lock key is already sort of auto latching - tap it momentarily once for caps, tap again for uncaps.
you could achieve the same result by using a latching switch on the shift key. the advantage of that is if you use any numeric characters, they'll be shifted too where as the cap lock will only effect letters.
Using a latching switch on the shift would allow you to 'shift' ALL keys to their upper-case output as indicated... but it wouldn't give you a visible reference as to which 'bank' you are using... which is why I used the CAPS LOCK key (with a bit of extra scripting to get AutoHotkey to read the CAPS status in order to trigger different outputs) and relocated the CAPS LED from the PCB to the top surface of the case.zeal wrote:momentary is the way to go, latching switches act as if you are holding down the key. the caps lock key is already sort of auto latching - tap it momentarily once for caps, tap again for uncaps.
you could achieve the same result by using a latching switch on the shift key. the advantage of that is if you use any numeric characters, they'll be shifted too where as the cap lock will only effect letters.
Also, I need this footcontroller to send midi messages, does autohotkey support that? Because with live, I can use the keymap function, but also want to use it with NI guitar rig, which only supports midi.midi.channel1.Control20 = Keyboard.B
you might want to check out this ebay store -PaulF wrote:Anyone know where I can buy 16 of those switches shipped in the US?
The rapid electronics link, wants more or less £16 for the switches, but £37 for the shipping to Texas. And I have found them online but at $5 USD each, while rapid electronics sells them for $1.50 USD, just a huge amount of shipping.
Thats the only thing keeping me down. Those switches are not available where I live, so I have to buy online.
I believe NI Guitar Rig also supports keyboard mapping...PaulF wrote: Also, I need this footcontroller to send midi messages, does autohotkey support that? Because with live, I can use the keymap function, but also want to use it with NI guitar rig, which only supports midi.
Thanks,
Paul Fehr
There's also always http://www.mouser.com and http://www.smallbearelec.com. The latter is a little more expensive but easier to find your way around because they specialize on DIY pedal building.PaulF wrote:Anyone know where I can buy 16 of those switches shipped in the US?
sorry for asking again but i am really stuck here.AlexMC wrote:
Those are double-pole, double-throw switches... meaning that each switch has two positions (ON/OFF) and can control 2 circuits simultaneously. For our purpose we only need one circuit switched, so we only use one 'side' of the switch, but for the sake of understanding think of the switch as being split down the middle, with both halves working symmetrically. WHatever happens on one side also happens on the other (whilst there is no interaction betweem each 'side').
If I recall correctly, if you look at the base of the switch, one side is marked '1 2 3' and the other marked M (for momentary). When the switch is OFF (i.e. undepressed), 2 and 3 are shorted (as are the equivalent lugs on the 'other side' of the switch). When you press the switch (ON), 1 and 2 are shorted (as are, again, the equivalent lugs on the other side). I.e. '2' is the common lug, so connect one conductor to this lug (i.e. the middle 'leg'). Hook the second conductor to lug 1. When the switch is depressed, one will be shorted to the other and you'll get a keyboard output. I would just use the side with the numbers and ignore the other side of the switch!
Hope this helps!
Hmm... sounds like you have done everything correctly; I can't imagine why it's not working.ohrobot wrote:sorry for asking again but i am really stuck here.AlexMC wrote:
Those are double-pole, double-throw switches... meaning that each switch has two positions (ON/OFF) and can control 2 circuits simultaneously. For our purpose we only need one circuit switched, so we only use one 'side' of the switch, but for the sake of understanding think of the switch as being split down the middle, with both halves working symmetrically. WHatever happens on one side also happens on the other (whilst there is no interaction betweem each 'side').
If I recall correctly, if you look at the base of the switch, one side is marked '1 2 3' and the other marked M (for momentary). When the switch is OFF (i.e. undepressed), 2 and 3 are shorted (as are the equivalent lugs on the 'other side' of the switch). When you press the switch (ON), 1 and 2 are shorted (as are, again, the equivalent lugs on the other side). I.e. '2' is the common lug, so connect one conductor to this lug (i.e. the middle 'leg'). Hook the second conductor to lug 1. When the switch is depressed, one will be shorted to the other and you'll get a keyboard output. I would just use the side with the numbers and ignore the other side of the switch!
Hope this helps!
okay, i ignore the "M" side. i have two wires coming from the keyboard controller (when i shorten them by simply crossing the wires i get a keyboard hit, so far so good).
now i connect one wire to the "1" lug and the other one to the "2" lug of the momentary switch (http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-C ... ches/79208). ... but nothing happens!
actually by trying with my multimeter all possible shortenings i couldn't find any where pushing the button shortens the circuit. what's my mistake?
i would be really happy for any hint!
thank you very much for your respond.AlexMC wrote: Hmm... sounds like you have done everything correctly; I can't imagine why it's not working.
Did you check whether shorting 2-3 works (switch both depressed and undepressed)? If you're not getting a signal across 2-3 then you have a problem with your meter or switch. Those buttons have to be pressed until you get a positive 'click' (kinda hard with your fingers, especially when trying to use a meter simultaneously!
Yes - if you don't hear and feel the 'click' then you haven't pushed the switch hard enough. Bear in mind these are footswitches, therefore require considerable pressure when you are using your fingertip!ohrobot wrote:thank you very much for your respond.AlexMC wrote: Hmm... sounds like you have done everything correctly; I can't imagine why it's not working.
Did you check whether shorting 2-3 works (switch both depressed and undepressed)? If you're not getting a signal across 2-3 then you have a problem with your meter or switch. Those buttons have to be pressed until you get a positive 'click' (kinda hard with your fingers, especially when trying to use a meter simultaneously!
yes, when i shorten 2 and 3 i get a static signal (so neither the switch nor the meter is completely broken).. but pushing the button doesn't interrupt the signal. so there must be something about the switch. however I tried others as well and even fully soldiered one to be able to push with "power". but pushing itself never changes something. hmm ..
should i feel a physical click by "successfully" pushing the button (because i don't)?
oooh, how embarassing. it really was me not pushing hard enough... thank you so much for your help! i'll post a photo of my 4x4 foot-switch matrix soonAlexMC wrote: Yes - if you don't hear and feel the 'click' then you haven't pushed the switch hard enough. Bear in mind these are footswitches, therefore require considerable pressure when you are using your fingertip!